New York Fashion Week advances and makes us debate between excess and minimalism. After an all-out start full of savoir faire Spanish, comes the turn of referents like Tom Ford (who does not give up his habit of being one of those who opens the week) and classics from several years ago as the Mulleavy sisters. And, with them, a aesthetic shock powerful for the next Fall-Winter 2019/2020.
Tom Ford reveals his most minimalist and simple facet
Based on the fall / winter collection he designed in 1996 to Gucci, American designer Tom Ford presented a essentially minimalist collection. The fluid dresses with the bare sword that raised the creator in Milan were therefore not lacking. And neither was the red trouser suit that Gigi Hadid wore on this occasion and seemed like a replica to the one presented 23 years ago.
And, although the Texan catwalk shone without attracting much attention, there was a innovation point that went unnoticed: your game with the materials. In this way the designer retries the classic suit using fabrics such as velvet, satin or leather. Combining blazer and pants on different fabrics managed to completely renew a classic bet. So we see blazer in velvet with satin or vinyl pants and vice versa. All in a much less striking tone to which current trends have accustomed us and slightly less oversize. Mind you, your reinterpretation of the male silhouette it's based on baggy pants with folded hems above the ankle and the possibility of maximizing the look wearing only one of the garments of the suit and mixing shades.
His commitment to simplicity may seem shocking due to his taste for excess but the designer had a good reason. According to Vogue, "I feel frustrated, agitated and exhausted. And I don't want to wear anything particularly challenging or anything particularly aggressive." And his new collection is "A search for security in response to the culture of negativity in the world around us, especially the US".
Rodarte does not give up his aesthetics and presents a fantasy world inspired by cinema
The duo showed their ability to make fashion and theatricality one and presents a collection inspired by one of his great passions: cinema. It is clear that the sisters are not lacking imagination and Rodarte's AW19 presentation proves it. They started with a remember of the 80s inspired by the movie All that jazz from Bob Fosse who had no waste. Sequins, extreme volumes, vivid colors, crop tops, high-waist pants…
They also visited the Hollywodian glamor and musicals with dresses full of frills combined with a vibrant makeup full of glitter and all kinds of hair ornaments. He did not miss his interpretation of nature which became evident in the botanical garden decoration and floral motifs and accessories. But, without a doubt his color blends, prints and silhouettes bold were the best of Show.