The city council of Paris together with the participation of the Ministry of Culture and the Vogue Paris Foundation have just acquired one of those calls through an auction "Flying Robes". It is a unique piece dated in the year 1730 that will become part of the collections that the Palais Galliera, he fashion museum from Paris.
This exceptional garment is made in a damask fabric in lemon yellow color and embroidered with silver thread and green silk, and reproduce those pagodas oriental inspired and exotic fruits how in vogue they were at the beginning of the 18th century.
However, the richness of the fabric increased by the silver thread and the great well preserved that is make it a unique piece in the world.
The acquisition of this suit took place during a auction made in Lyon on February 4, and was awarded by 140,000 euros. A record for a garment dated in the eighteenth century.
For the Palais Galliera collections It is also an important achievement since since 2004 he acquired garments that belonged to the Princes de Lignes (one of the most prestigious noble titles in Belgium); and in 2007 a suit and a shirt that belonged to the dolphin of France, the future Louis XVII, had not again disposed among their collections of such a valuable piece.
The item in question could have belonged to Francoise de la Chaize d'Aix, wife of Pierre-François de Montaigu who was an ambassador of Louis XV in Venice (1743-1749) and, to date, the suit had always remained in the chateau de La Chaize belonging to the family of the Chaize d'Aix (Beaujolais - Lyon) who counted among their ancestors with the confessor of Louis XIV.
It was at the end of the reign of Louis XIV when this new style of costumes, with corset without whales, made an appearance. It was a suit inspired by gowns or bed breaks that came from the Indies. Although there were those who assured that it was put in fashion by Madame de Montespan, lover of the king, to hide his pregnancies.
At the beginning of the 18th century this suit was evolving giving life to those wide coats with large folds that fell from the shoulders to the floor and used to cover the skirts. Although these suits were underneath a corset and a polisón they were more comfortable, but they were considered indecent to appear with them in court, so they were soon replaced by costumes labeled "French" that triumphed throughout Europe from the year 1730 until the French Revolution.
To date, only the existence of three copies from Flying Robes in the world. He Palais Galliera I was already guarding one. The other two copies are in the United States (Metropolitan Museum) and in Japan (Kyoto Costume Institute), but have variations in their forms. With this new acquisition, the Paris fashion museum can boast of owning two of these very rare clothes, but the most important of all is that it will allow us to learn a little more about the feminine fashion of the Century of the lights.
Official site | Palais Galliera
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